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Sunday, September 25, 2005

Neuschwanstein Castle, Germany

We've had the pleasure of being able to go to the Neuschwanstein Castle a number of times but it was my first trip that was the most picturesque. This castle is well known as being the inspiration for castles in numerous Disney movies to include the iconic castle located in Disney World.

When you first drive towards the castle, following the signs, you really don't see anything but a spec of the white outline against the mountainside, within the valley.


Even as you park your vehicle in the village of Hohenschwangau, it doesn't dawn upon you on the magnitude of the structure simply based upon where the castle was built. 


There is a path/paved road that leads you from the village to Neuschwanstein. If you have the opportunity to visit during the summer, every-so-often, you will get a slight glimpse of the castle through the vegetation. 


Before you know it, you are at the base of the castle. Of course, I wanted to get a better view of the structure, but what better way to see it, than walking away from it. 


I followed a less traveled path that is located just to the south and east of the castle and continues to travel up the adjacent mountainside. You will have an opportunity to see the castle from above with a view into the valley. 


By the time we are at this point, there were no tourists, not even Germans. I may have traveled a bit out of the way but this location did provide a solitary and private overlook of the castle. No matter where you are viewing this structure nor what time of year you go, it is a spectacular place to visist.




Saturday, August 13, 2005

Rothenburg ob der Tauber: A Time Capsule of Cobblestones, Curiosity, and Confection

There are some places that feel like a movie set—and then there’s Rothenburg ob der Tauber, which feels like the movie set that inspired every fairytale village you’ve ever seen. With its perfectly preserved medieval walls, timber-framed houses, and winding cobbled streets, this Bavarian gem makes you feel like you've wandered straight into a storybook. Or maybe a postcard. Or both. By far, one of my most favorite city to visit in Germany. 



Stepping into History

Rothenburg’s history stretches back over a thousand years, and remarkably, much of it still stands. Unlike so many towns that modernized or rebuilt after World War II, Rothenburg painstakingly restored its original structures—thanks in part to a mix of good fortune, American pressure to preserve its heritage, and community-driven passion.

Walking through its arched city gates and along the ramparts of the old town wall, it’s easy to forget what century you’re in. There are towers and turrets at every turn. Lantern-lit alleys that seem to whisper secrets. And buildings that lean in toward the streets like they’ve been gossiping for centuries.


The Quirky and the Grim: The Medieval Crime Museum

As dreamy as Rothenburg looks on the outside, it’s also home to one of the most fascinating (and chilling) museums we've ever visited, the Medieval Crime and Justice Museum.

Don’t let the fairytale vibes fool you—justice in the Middle Ages was brutal. This museum dives deep into the darker corners of history, exploring how crime and punishment evolved over time. From shame masks and pillories to full-on iron maidens (yes, those), the exhibits are intense, but incredibly well-curated. There’s also plenty about the development of law, witch trials, public penance, and the ways people tried (and failed) to get around the rules.

It’s not gory or sensationalized—it’s historical, a little creepy, and definitely eye-opening.



The Sweetest Sphere: Schneeball Pastry

Of course, no trip to Rothenburg is complete without indulging in its most famous (and photogenic) local treat, the Schneeball, or “snowball.” This round, fist-sized pastry looks like a crunchy tumbleweed of dough, traditionally dusted in powdered sugar but now available in every flavor you can imagine: chocolate-coated, nut-crusted, cinnamon, marzipan-filled… the list goes on.

We stopped into Diller Schneeballentraume, one of the more well-known bakeries, and picked up a few for the road. Pro tip: they’re sturdier than they look, so don’t be afraid to throw a couple in your bag for later. They travel well and pair perfectly with a hot coffee back home when you’re feeling nostalgic for cobblestones and castle walls. Photo was missed of this delicious treat as it didn't last long in my possession but here is a stone castle wall pathway you can traverse. 

Final Thoughts: A Living Fairytale

Rothenburg ob der Tauber isn’t just a pretty face. It’s a town that lives and breathes its history, with flower boxes on every windowsill, knight’s armor in shop windows, and stories layered into every stone. It’s equal parts charming and thought-provoking. Romantic and eerie. Sweet and serious.

Whether you’re strolling the wall walk at sunset, studying a rack in the torture museum, or biting into a powdered sugar snowball, Rothenburg is unforgettable.


If You Go:

  • Stay overnight if you can—the day-trippers leave by evening and the town becomes even more magical. I've always made day trips here and regret that I didn't spend the night. 

  • Most of the town is walkable; wear comfortable shoes for cobblestones and tower climbs.

  • If you're a Christmas fan, visit Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Christmas Village—open year-round and worth the detour.



Friday, August 12, 2005

Köln: Spires, Stories, and Sweet Things by the Rhine

It’s almost impossible to arrive in Cologne and not be stopped in your tracks by the sheer scale of the Kölner Dom, Cologne Cathedral. It looms large over the city’s skyline, a Gothic masterpiece that somehow feels both grounded in stone and floating in time. 

Cologne Cathedral: A Monument of Devotion and Endurance

The Cologne Cathedral isn’t just big—it’s massive. Towering at over 157 meters (about 515 feet), it’s one of the tallest cathedrals in Europe, and it took over 600 years to complete. Construction began in 1248 and wasn’t finished until 1880. It’s hard to wrap your head around that kind of timeline.

Inside, the cathedral is as awe-inspiring as it is from the outside. Soaring stained glass windows throw soft color across the stone columns. There’s a reverent hush—even with the usual crowd of tourists—broken only by the occasional gasp or whispered “wow.” The Shrine of the Three Kings, said to house the relics of the Magi, draws many pilgrims, but even if you're not religious, the artistry and symbolism in every corner are mesmerizing.


If you’re up for a bit of a challenge (and your knees agree), climbing the 533 steps to the South Tower is a must. The view from the top is unreal—an endless stretch of rooftops, the winding Rhine, and the steady beat of modern life surrounding this ancient marvel.

Sweet Detour: The Cologne Chocolate Museum

After all those stairs, we figured we earned a little treat and luckily, Cologne has just the place: the Lindt's Schokoladenmuseum (Chocolate Museum). Sitting right on the riverfront, the museum is part exhibit, part Willy Wonka dreamland.

Inside, you get a fascinating look at the journey of chocolate—from ancient Mayan cacao ceremonies to modern-day sustainable farming. There are vintage machines, historical artifacts, and plenty of hands-on stations where you can see (and smell) chocolate being made.

The highlight, of course, is the giant chocolate fountain—a golden structure with molten chocolate flowing into a pool where museum staff dip fresh wafers for you to try. It’s not a gimmick. It’s pure, creamy joy.

And yes, there’s a full Lindt shop on-site, which we may have spent a little too much time in.

A City That Balances Wonder

Cologne is the kind of place that surprises you. You come for the history and the architecture, but you stay for the warm, walkable streets, the riverside cafés, and the unassuming way the old and new blend together. One moment you're gazing up at medieval stained glass, and the next you're sipping espresso by the Rhine, watching riverboats drift by.

Whether you’re drawn by the grandeur of its cathedral or the sweetness of its chocolate factory (or both, like us), Köln leaves a lasting impression—deep, warm, and maybe just a little sugar-dusted.


Tips if You Go:

  • The Cathedral is free to enter, but the tower climb and treasury have a small fee.

  • The Chocolate Museum is popular so buy tickets in advance online if you’re visiting during peak seasons.

  • Don’t miss walking across the Hohenzollern Bridge for a great photo of the cathedral (and thousands of love locks).

Saturday, June 25, 2005

Ulm: Reaching for Heaven, One Step at a Time

There are cathedrals, and then there’s Ulm Minster—a church so tall, it feels like it was built to tug at the sky itself. Nestled in the charming, lesser-known city of Ulm, Germany, this soaring Gothic structure quietly holds a world record: the tallest church in the world, standing at an awe-inspiring 161.5 meters (530 feet). But even more than its stats, it’s the feeling it leaves you with—equal parts awe, humility, and sore calves.

First Impressions: Gothic Grandeur

You don’t just walk up to Ulm Minster—you approach it. As you come through the open square of Münsterplatz, it gradually dominates your view, its filigree spire rising with impossible detail. Construction began in 1377, and like many of Europe’s great cathedrals, it wasn’t finished until centuries later—in this case, 1890.

The outside is pure Gothic drama: pointed arches, flying buttresses, and more statues than your eyes can count. But it’s the sheer height of the central tower that makes everyone crane their necks and do a slow, wide-angle phone photo while mumbling something like “Whoa.”

Inside: Still, Sacred, and Surprisingly Bright

Step inside, and the hush takes over. The interior is vast but peaceful—sunlight filtering through high stained glass windows, casting soft color across stone columns. The scale of the nave is breathtaking, yet somehow the space feels balanced, almost intimate.

Take time to look up (again), admire the intricate choir stalls, and if you’re lucky, catch the sound of the organ reverberating through the massive space. For a building that’s seen plagues, wars, and reformation, Ulm Minster holds a deep, grounding stillness.

The Climb: 768 Steps to the Top

Now for the part that separates the casual tourists from the slightly sweaty adventurers: the climb. Yep, 768 spiraling stone steps all the way up to the viewing platform just below the spire’s peak. There’s no elevator. Just your legs, your breath, and a growing respect for medieval stonemasons and cardio.

It’s narrow, it’s dizzying, and yes, it’s absolutely worth it.

At the top, you’re rewarded with panoramic views over Ulm and beyond. On a clear day, you can see across the Danube River, into Bavaria, and even catch a glimpse of the Alps on the horizon. The rooftops, winding alleys, and patchwork of terracotta tiles below look like a model village from a dream.






Beyond the Minster

While Ulm Minster is the main draw, the city itself has a relaxed, welcoming vibe. We spent time wandering the Fischerviertel (Fishermen’s Quarter), full of half-timbered houses and canals, and even stopped at the quirky leaning house, a building that leans further than the Tower of Pisa (seriously!). But nothing quite compares to the memory of standing at the top of the tallest church in the world, wind on your face, and history under your feet.


If You Go:

  • The climb to the top costs a few euros—bring cash or card, and maybe a bottle of water.

  • Wear good shoes. The spiral staircase gets narrow and can be slippery.

  • Plan your visit early in the day for fewer crowds and the clearest skies.


Whether you come for the climb, the architecture, or simply to sit in the square and marvel at what human hands have built, Ulm Minster leaves a deep impression. It’s not just the height—it’s the heart behind it.

And after 768 steps, we can confidently say: sometimes the best views really do come to those who rise.

Saturday, April 9, 2005

Bastogne: Where Courage Held the Line

Tucked away in the Ardennes region of Belgium, Bastogne may seem like just another quiet European town, surrounded by forests and winding roads. But if you know your history or if you've ever seen Band of Brothers—you’ll recognize this unassuming place as the site of one of the most pivotal and heroic chapters in American military history: the Battle of the Bulge.

In December 1944, Bastogne became the focal point of a massive surprise German offensive. Hitler’s goal was to split the Allied forces, push through the Ardennes, and recapture Antwerp. Caught in the middle of this last-ditch effort were the soldiers of the 101st Airborne Division, along with elements of the 10th Armored Division and other units. The town was surrounded. Supplies were low. The weather was brutal. And yet—they held.

“NUTS!”

If there’s one word you associate with Bastogne, it’s this: “Nuts!”

When the Germans demanded the surrender of the American forces in the city, Brigadier General Anthony McAuliffe famously responded with that single, defiant word. It wasn’t just a quip—it became a rallying cry. A declaration that no matter how cold, how outnumbered, or how dire things looked, they would not give up.


Photo at McAuliffe Square

Memorials and Museums

Today, Bastogne honors the sacrifice and bravery of those soldiers with multiple museums and memorials. The most prominent is the Mardasson Memorial, a massive star-shaped monument bearing the names of all 50 U.S. states and commemorating the 76,890 American casualties from the Battle of the Bulge. Standing at the top, you get a sweeping view of the forest and farmlands that were once a war zone.



Right next to it is the Bastogne War Museum, which is not only thoughtfully curated but also deeply immersive. The museum follows four fictional characters, a Belgian schoolboy, a nurse, a German soldier, and an American paratrooper, through their personal journeys in the war. It's an emotional, multi-perspective experience that drives home the humanity behind the history.

Walking Through History

If you walk the perimeter of Bastogne today, it’s hard to reconcile the peaceful countryside with what took place here. The foxholes dug by Easy Company of the 506th Parachute Infantry Regiment are still visible in the woods outside town, especially in the area known as Bois Jacques, near the village of Foy. It’s quiet. Almost sacred. A place where bravery left its mark in the frozen soil.

Why Bastogne Still Matters

Bastogne isn't just a name in a textbook. It’s a place where ordinary Soldiers did something extraordinary under impossible circumstances. It's about resilience. Brotherhood. And the refusal to let fear or hardship define the outcome. For anyone with even a passing interest in military history, or just in stories of human endurance, it’s worth the visit.

And for Americans especially, Bastogne is more than a battlefield. It’s hallowed ground.


Tips if You Go:

  • The town embraces its history—there are reenactments and commemorations every December.

  • The Bastogne War Museum offers audio guides in multiple languages and has an excellent café.

  • Wear good walking shoes if you plan to visit Bois Jacques; it’s a bit of a hike, but worth every step.