Rothenburg ob der Tauber: A Time Capsule of Cobblestones, Curiosity, and Confection

There are some places that feel like a movie set—and then there’s Rothenburg ob der Tauber, which feels like the movie set that inspired every fairytale village you’ve ever seen. With its perfectly preserved medieval walls, timber-framed houses, and winding cobbled streets, this Bavarian gem makes you feel like you've wandered straight into a storybook. Or maybe a postcard. Or both. By far, one of my most favorite city to visit in Germany. 

Stepping into History

Rothenburg’s history stretches back over a thousand years, and remarkably, much of it still stands. Unlike so many towns that modernized or rebuilt after World War II, Rothenburg painstakingly restored its original structures—thanks in part to a mix of good fortune, American pressure to preserve its heritage, and community-driven passion.

Walking through its arched city gates and along the ramparts of the old town wall, it’s easy to forget what century you’re in. There are towers and turrets at every turn. Lantern-lit alleys that seem to whisper secrets. And buildings that lean in toward the streets like they’ve been gossiping for centuries.

The Quirky and the Grim: The Medieval Crime Museum

As dreamy as Rothenburg looks on the outside, it’s also home to one of the most fascinating (and chilling) museums we've ever visited, the Medieval Crime and Justice Museum.

Don’t let the fairytale vibes fool you—justice in the Middle Ages was brutal. This museum dives deep into the darker corners of history, exploring how crime and punishment evolved over time. From shame masks and pillories to full-on iron maidens (yes, those), the exhibits are intense, but incredibly well-curated. There’s also plenty about the development of law, witch trials, public penance, and the ways people tried (and failed) to get around the rules.

It’s not gory or sensationalized—it’s historical, a little creepy, and definitely eye-opening.

The Sweetest Sphere: Schneeball Pastry

Of course, no trip to Rothenburg is complete without indulging in its most famous (and photogenic) local treat, the Schneeball, or “snowball.” This round, fist-sized pastry looks like a crunchy tumbleweed of dough, traditionally dusted in powdered sugar but now available in every flavor you can imagine: chocolate-coated, nut-crusted, cinnamon, marzipan-filled… the list goes on.

We stopped into Diller Schneeballentraume, one of the more well-known bakeries, and picked up a few for the road. Pro tip: they’re sturdier than they look, so don’t be afraid to throw a couple in your bag for later. They travel well and pair perfectly with a hot coffee back home when you’re feeling nostalgic for cobblestones and castle walls. Photo was missed of this delicious treat as it didn't last long in my possession but here is a stone castle wall pathway you can traverse. 

Final Thoughts: A Living Fairytale

Rothenburg ob der Tauber isn’t just a pretty face. It’s a town that lives and breathes its history, with flower boxes on every windowsill, knight’s armor in shop windows, and stories layered into every stone. It’s equal parts charming and thought-provoking. Romantic and eerie. Sweet and serious.

Whether you’re strolling the wall walk at sunset, studying a rack in the torture museum, or biting into a powdered sugar snowball, Rothenburg is unforgettable.

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If You Go:

• Stay overnight if you can—the day-trippers leave by evening and the town becomes even more magical. I've always made day trips here and regret that I didn't spend the night. 

• Most of the town is walkable; wear comfortable shoes for cobblestones and tower climbs.

• If you're a Christmas fan, visit Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Christmas Village—open year-round and worth the detour.

Köln: Spires, Stories, and Sweet Things by the Rhine

It’s almost impossible to arrive in Cologne and not be stopped in your tracks by the sheer scale of the Kölner Dom, Cologne Cathedral. It looms large over the city’s skyline, a Gothic masterpiece that somehow feels both grounded in stone and floating in time. 

Cologne Cathedral: A Monument of Devotion and Endurance

The Cologne Cathedral isn’t just big—it’s massive. Towering at over 157 meters (about 515 feet), it’s one of the tallest cathedrals in Europe, and it took over 600 years to complete. Construction began in 1248 and wasn’t finished until 1880. It’s hard to wrap your head around that kind of timeline.

Inside, the cathedral is as awe-inspiring as it is from the outside. Soaring stained glass windows throw soft color across the stone columns. There’s a reverent hush—even with the usual crowd of tourists—broken only by the occasional gasp or whispered “wow.” The Shrine of the Three Kings, said to house the relics of the Magi, draws many pilgrims, but even if you're not religious, the artistry and symbolism in every corner are mesmerizing.

If you’re up for a bit of a challenge (and your knees agree), climbing the 533 steps to the South Tower is a must. The view from the top is unreal—an endless stretch of rooftops, the winding Rhine, and the steady beat of modern life surrounding this ancient marvel.

Sweet Detour: The Cologne Chocolate Museum

After all those stairs, we figured we earned a little treat and luckily, Cologne has just the place: the Lindt's Schokoladenmuseum (Chocolate Museum). Sitting right on the riverfront, the museum is part exhibit, part Willy Wonka dreamland.

Inside, you get a fascinating look at the journey of chocolate—from ancient Mayan cacao ceremonies to modern-day sustainable farming. There are vintage machines, historical artifacts, and plenty of hands-on stations where you can see (and smell) chocolate being made.

The highlight, of course, is the giant chocolate fountain—a golden structure with molten chocolate flowing into a pool where museum staff dip fresh wafers for you to try. It’s not a gimmick. It’s pure, creamy joy.

And yes, there’s a full Lindt shop on-site, which we may have spent a little too much time in.

A City That Balances Wonder

Cologne is the kind of place that surprises you. You come for the history and the architecture, but you stay for the warm, walkable streets, the riverside cafés, and the unassuming way the old and new blend together. One moment you're gazing up at medieval stained glass, and the next you're sipping espresso by the Rhine, watching riverboats drift by.

Whether you’re drawn by the grandeur of its cathedral or the sweetness of its chocolate factory (or both, like us), Köln leaves a lasting impression—deep, warm, and maybe just a little sugar-dusted.

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Tips if You Go:

• The Cathedral is free to enter, but the tower climb and treasury have a small fee.

• The Chocolate Museum is popular so buy tickets in advance online if you’re visiting during peak seasons.

• Don’t miss walking across the Hohenzollern Bridge for a great photo of the cathedral (and thousands of love locks).