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Monday, December 2, 2013

Hawaii: Big Island: Kealakekua Bay, Kona, and South Point

Exploring Kealakekua Bay, Kona, and South Point: Snorkels, History, and Coastal Adventures

The Big Island of Hawaii has a way of packing an entire day of adventure into just a few hours, and our latest journey through Kona down to the southern tip of the island proved that once again. Between historic sites, crystal-clear waters, and rugged coastal cliffs, this day trip reminded us why the Big Island is as diverse as it is magical.


Morning: Snorkeling at Kealakekua Bay

We started the day at Kealakekua Bay, widely regarded as one of Hawaii’s premier snorkeling spots. Accessible either by kayak, boat tour, or a challenging hike, the bay’s sheltered waters are home to vibrant coral gardens and an astonishing variety of fish. As soon as we slipped into the water, we were greeted by schools of bright parrotfish, humuhumunukunukuapua’a, and the occasional elegant black triggerfish. We decided to take the challenging hike to the bay, thinking... it can't be that bad.... phew...


We're in the Kona area, must venture out with a cup of coffee... Don't judge me on where I got it from, it was NOT my first cup for the day... 


For the first half of the walk, you are walking through a path that is paved through thick vegetation. There is not much of a view ahead of you, until you hit the clearing the the views are breathtaking.


Don't let the views distract your or you may miss a step and faaaaaaalllll! 

The water was warm and calm, and visibility stretched far enough to spot every coral nook and crevice. It’s impossible not to feel like you’ve been transported into another world, quiet, serene, and completely mesmerizing.


Mid-Morning: Captain Cook’s Memorial

After a few hours in the bay, we paddled or drove up to Captain Cook’s Monument, a simple but striking white stone memorial tucked along the shoreline. James Cook’s history in Hawaii is complicated, but visiting the site gives perspective on how the islands were first seen by European explorers. Standing there, looking down over the bay we’d just snorkeled in, the juxtaposition of history and natural beauty was striking.


I am not sure how one would launch from here - it was hard enough to venture down with just a backpack. I am not even worried about the climb back up... yet... but a pleasant surprise at the completion of our accent, someone left a bushel of bananas on the windshield of our car, that we could tell were freshly picked. The locals are so kind and welcoming; be sure to respectful of local practices and culture. 


If solitude is not within your comfort zone, I would have to say that many parts of Hawaii may not be places you may want to venture too. 


Wish I had the right gear to get a better photo of the coral and sea life. I guess it'll have to wait until the next trip. 

It’s one of those places where you pause, take a deep breath, and just take it all in, the turquoise waters, the cliffs, and the quiet weight of history all at once.


Afternoon: Exploring Kona

After our history lesson, we headed north into Kona proper for a late lunch and a little local exploration. Kona’s charm lies in its blend of small-town streets and coastal scenery: local coffee shops, boutique stores, and historic sites all nestled between lava flows and palm trees. Did I mention Coffee...  it's where Kona Coffee is grown, please revel in that and enjoy, if you are a coffee aficionado. 

We wandered the streets, sipped locally roasted coffee, and even stopped for a short walk along the bayfront before heading south again. Kona makes a perfect midway point between the historic sites of the bay and the more rugged landscapes further down the coast. ahem... find and drink more coffee... 


Late Afternoon: Venturing to South Point

Next, we set our sights on Ka Lae, or South Point, the southernmost tip of the United States. The drive down takes you through the stark, otherworldly lava landscapes of the Ka’u region, barren, wind-swept, and incredibly dramatic.



These waters are not meant to venture into!


If you are daring to jump off the western cliffs, this is your only way back out of the water. It's by where all the locals are parked and fishing off the side of the cliff. If they aren't doing it, I would highly recommend you take their queues and not jump in.


The waters seem to be calmer on this side of South Point, or we're so high up, that I can't tell how choppy the waters really are. 


Then I came across this opening, not too far from the ladder, and you realize the immense power of the waters here. 

At South Point, the ocean crashes against cliffs that feel like the edge of the world. It’s windy, raw, and beautiful, with a sense of isolation that contrasts sharply with the more populated areas we visited earlier. A few daring visitors were cliff diving, though we opted to stay safely on the ledges and take in the views.


Sunset and Reflection

We ended the day on the drive back toward Kona, watching the sun sink into the Pacific and reflecting on a day that blended snorkeling, history, small-town charm, and rugged natural beauty. The Big Island has a way of showing you so many sides of itself in a single day — from underwater wonderlands to volcanic deserts to the tips of continents — that it’s impossible to experience it all in one trip. But days like this come close.


Only if it wasn't soo cloudy this evening. Oh well, until the next trip to Hawaii.

Sunday, December 1, 2013

Hawaii: Big Island: Snorkeling, Desert Drives, and Mauna Kea Views

A Perfect Day on the Big Island: Snorkeling, Desert Drives, and Mauna Kea Views

Hawaii’s Big Island is often described as a place of extremes, lush rainforests and stark lava deserts, turquoise waters and dark volcanic sands, sleepy towns and otherworldly mountaintops. On our recent adventure, we decided to pack as much of this island magic as possible into each and every single day, and it did not disappoint.


Morning: Snorkeling at Kahalu'u Beach Park

Our day began at Kahalu'u Beach Park, a small, sheltered bay on the Kona coast that’s famous for its clear water and abundance of tropical fish. As soon as we slipped into the water, we were greeted by a rainbow of reef fish darting between the coral and the occasional sea turtle gliding gracefully by. The water was calm and warm, making it perfect for a leisurely snorkel.


Just like New York City rush hour, you where someone literally pushes past you without even noticing you’re there. You might stumble, step aside, and think, “Was that intentional?” but you just keep moving because stopping is not an option. The turtles seem to be the same way here in Hawaii, they don't care if you are around and at times, seem like they will push past you. Give the turtles some space.  


Spending a couple of hours here was magical. Between observing the colorful reef and floating in the gentle current, it felt like we were in our own private aquarium. With it's ease of access, it can get pretty crowded so that is the reason we opted for an earlier morning snorkeling excursion. 


Midday: Driving Through the Desert of the Island’s Heart

After drying off and grabbing a quick (late) breakfast, we headed inland toward the island’s central plateau. The scenery here is a striking contrast to the lush coastlines: rolling lava fields, dry grasslands, and black volcanic rock stretching as far as the eye can see. It’s not what most people expect when they think of Hawaii, but the stark, open landscape has its own mesmerizing beauty.

I really enjoy driving in new places, so this drive itself was part of the adventure, winding roads that revealed ever-changing landscapes and small towns tucked into the island’s interior. This stretch is a reminder that the Big Island is a land of extremes and surprises at every turn.


Day Tour of the Mauna Kea Observatory

One of the highlights of our day was a guided day tour of the observatory facilities, which is built on the the island’s tallest peak. The drive up is an experience in itself: from tropical forests in the lower elevations, the terrain gradually shifts to barren volcanic rock and, eventually, the high-altitude summit.

Tours usually start with a brief orientation at a lower visitor center, where guides explain the scientific significance of Mauna Kea’s telescopes and the mountain’s unique astronomical advantages. From there, we took a vehicle up toward the summit, stopping at scenic overlooks to photograph the volcanic landscapes and the surrounding islands. Highly recommend you rent a 4-wheel-drive during your visit, if you want to explore different parts of the island. 


You must have a 4-wheel drive to get to the summit. 


Keep your distance during the caravan ride up to the summit. 


At the summit, our guide shared stories about how the observatories track distant galaxies, planets, and stars. Even from the parking area, the telescopes are massive and impressive, you get a real sense of the scale and complexity of these instruments. For astronomy enthusiasts, just standing beside them while the sky deepens into twilight is unforgettable.





When you realize why these observatories were built on this mountain top. 


Don't force yourself to claim damages to your rental car, heed the warning signs and don't park near the buildings. 


Welcome!


Spectacular views once you summit! 

The tour also highlighted the importance of protecting Mauna Kea’s sacred environment, and guides emphasize respect for both the scientific research and the native Hawaiian culture tied to the mountain. It’s an experience that blends adventure, education, and awe-inspiring scenery all in one.


Evening: Mauna Kea Summit and Observatory

The temperature drops significantly at this elevation, but the view, a panoramic sweep of the island, the Pacific Ocean, and the neighboring peaks, makes every shiver worth it. We went from swimming gear, shorts and t-shirt earlier in the day to hoodies, beanie caps, gloves which were not enough layers to keep us warm. 

We lingered just long enough to watch twilight settle over the Big Island before beginning the descent back toward the coast. The contrast between the tropical warmth of the beaches and the crisp mountaintop air made the day feel like a journey through multiple worlds, all on the same island.


Final Thoughts

In just one day, we experienced the full spectrum of the Big Island: snorkeling with turtles in warm waters, driving through otherworldly lava deserts, and standing among the stars at Mauna Kea’s summit. It’s a reminder of why this island is truly called the “Big Island,” every corner feels like a different adventure, and even one day can leave you awe-inspired.